If you have been rock climbing and working towards getting stronger and having more endurance it is hard to miss the appeal of starting hangboard and campusing workouts. Hangboard and campusing tools are iconic in every rock climbing gym and for good reason. They both allow climbers to focus in on finger and tendon strength, which are key skills to have when climbing at your top level. However, without a proper foundation of strength climbers can easily injure themselves.
"I see a lot of climbers who started a new hangboard or campusing workout and got injured," said Katey Blumenthal, DPT, a physical therapist with the Ï㽶ÊÓƵ of Utah Orthopaedic Center. "Their injuries are a result of poor mechanics and insufficient integration of the neck, trunk, shoulders, elbows, and wrists."
Blumenthal has created a 6-week program to help climbers get ready to tackle these climbing tools without injury. Her progression of exercises is designed to be done before starting hangboard or campusing workouts, giving climbers time to focus on optimizing body mechanics to reduce the risk of injury.
"Climbing requires a lot of 'isometric' or 'stabilizing' strength at the shoulder girdle, the posterior rotator cuff muscles, and at the wrist," she said. "Going into a climbing season without a strong base of this stabilizing type strength can lead to injuries in areas that are 'weaker links,' the areas that aren't anatomically designed to be stressed as hard."
Six Week Program Exercises
Perform all exercises 3-4 days per week
Week 1
External Rotation with Band | 3 sets of 8 repetitions
I and T Holds | 3 sets of 20 Second Holds
Week 2
External Rotation Wide with Band | 3 sets of 8 repetitions
I and T Holds | 3 sets of 20 Second Holds
Week 3
External Rotation Wide with Band | 3 sets of 8 repetitions
I and T Holds with Flutter Kicks | 3 sets of 20 Second Holds
External Rotation Lifts | 3 sets of 5 repetitions
Rhomboid Pushups | 3 sets of 10 repetitions
Week 4
Y Lift with Chin Tuck | 3 sets of 20 second Holds
External Rotation Lifts with Hips and Knees at 90° | 3 sets of 5 repetitions
Plank Rhomboid Pushups | 3 sets of 10 repetitions
Week 5
Y Lift with Flutter Kicks | 3 sets of 10 kicks per leg
External Rotation Lifts with Hips and Knees at 60° | 3 sets of 5 repetitions
Plank Hip Extensions | 3 sets of 5 kicks per leg
Week 6
Y Lift with Band | 3 sets of 20 second holds
External Rotation Lifts with Hips and Knees at 45° | 3 sets of 5 repetitions
Planks with Rotation | 3 sets of 5 repetitions